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LACE FINGERLESS MITTS
BY Grannie Linda Peck 6/09
Materials: One 50 gm. ball (1 3/4 oz.) of fingering
weight yarn.
I used 2-ply handspun Australian Bond from Aliza
Vanderlip, Ashland, OR. It was spun from the locks on an Ashford Traveler.
2 -Size US #1 (2.25 mm.) 16-inch circular needles or
size to give gauge.
A set of 4-inch double point needles for the thumb.
Size E crochet hook. Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
Gauge: 28 sts/48 rows = 4 inches in stockinette
stitch.
This is a medium sized mitt for about a 6-inch wrist,
and a 7 1/2-inch hand circumference…but it is stretchy and contracted
enough that it will fit most women’s hands. The top of the mitt is long
enough to keep the fingers warm and then can be folded back for doing
important things like knitting and playing the piano!
CUFF
Starting at bottom of cuff, cast on 55 sts.
I put 25 sts. on the first circular (BACK of the mitt)
and 30 sts. on the second needle (PALM of the mitt)
NOTE: The mitts are NOT interchangeable. You will be
making a right hand one and a left hand one.
You will need to make changes (that I will note) when
you make the second mitt. The first mitt is for the RIGHT HAND.
The cuff is worked in Lacy Mock Cables, a stitch from the Big Book
of Knitting Stitch Patterns (Sterling Pub.)
on page 191 modified.
LACY MOCK CABLE
Round 1: (Knit 3, p 2) around.
Round 2: (Knit 3, pull the first stitch over the second two and off the
needle – 1 stitch reduced – purl 2) around.
NOTE: you will only have 44
stitches around on your cuff at this point!
Round 3: (Knit 2, purl 2) around.
Round 4: (Knit 1, yarn over, knit 1, purl 2) around. Back to 55
stitches!
Round 5: (Knit 3, p 2) around.
Begin cuff by knitting round 1 of Lacy Mock Cable.
Continue until cuff is about 3 inches long. (I did 7 repeats of rows 1-5,
plus rows 1-4 once more).
It is best to make sure you end with a row so that
you have 55 stitches (remember, on rows 2 & 3 you will only have 44!).
PRODUCTION NOTE:
This next paragraph is just to give you an idea of
where you will be heading, what the work of the hand will be like.
For the hand of the mitt, you will continue to work
the mock cable up the side of the mitt, the center back, and the center of
the thumb. You can put some kind of pin or marker on these cables to
remind you!
The first needle has 25 stitches and this is
the BACK of the hand. This first needle will work like this:
8 stitches of Lacy Diamond, 7 stitches for the mock
cable (3 cable stitches with 2 purl stitches on either side), 8 stitches
for the Lacy Diamond stitch, then purl 2 for the mock cable that will be
going up the center thumb. (25 sts.)
For the second, PALM, needle (30 stitches),
you will be working 3 mock cable stitches (center of the thumb), purl 2,
then you will have 18 stitches of stockinette stitch, then 7 stitches for
the side mock cable (3 cable stitches with 2 purl stitches on either
side). (30 sts.)
NOTE: TO MAKE THE THUMB INCREASES EASIER ON
THE RIGHT MITT ONLY move one stitch from the BACK needle to the PALM
needle on the edge where the thumb will be. You can do this right away, or
do it on the first row.
LACY DIAMOND {From the Big Book of Knitting
Stitch Patterns (Sterling Pub.)on page 156 modified.
Round 1: Knit 8 stitches.
Round 2: Knit 2, knit 2 together, yarn over twice
{two loops on needle}, slip1knit1pass the slipped stitch over
{sl1,k1,psso}, knit 2.
Round 3: Knit 3, (knit1, purl1) in double yarn over,
knit 3.
Round 4: Knit 1, knit 2 tog., yo, knit 2, yo,
sl1,k1,psso, knit 1.
Round 5: Knit 8 stitches.
Round 6: (Knit 2 tog, yo,) 3 times, sl1,k1,psso.
(There will only be 7 stitches – REMEMBER!!!)
Round 7 Knit 7 stitches. Remember?
Round 8: Yo, sl1,k1,psso, yo, k 2 tog, knit 1, yo, k
2 tog, yo. (Back to 8 stitches – whew!)
Round 9: Knit 8 stitches.
Round 10: Knit 1, yo, sl1,k1,psso, knit 2, knit 2
tog, yo, knit 1.
Round 11: Knit 8 stitches.
Round 12: Knit 2, yo, sl1,k1,psso, knit 2 tog, yo,
knit 2.
Keep in mind that the Mock Cable is a 5-row repeat
and the Lacy Diamond is a 12-row repeat!
HAND
Now, off we go! Needle 1: Work round 1 of Lacy
Diamond across 8 stitches, purl 2, knit 3, {NOTE!! If you are not on round
5 of the Mock Cable stitch, adjust accordingly!}, purl 2, again work round
1 of Lacy Diamond, purl one – if you have not already done so, now
is the time to move the last stitch of this BACK needle to the PALM needle
to make thumb gusset increases easier! This stitch will be purled through
out! This will give you 24 stitches on needle one (BACK) and 31 stitches
on needle 2 (PALM)!
Needle 2: purl one{the moved stitch}, knit 3,
purl 2 (mock cable), knit 18, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2 (mock cable).
Continue up the hand as established. Follow the Mock
Cable and Lacy Diamond stitches as listed.
THUMB GUSSET INCREASES
The increases for the thumb gusset will begin on the
5th round of the hand, then worked again every fourth round
until you have increased 7 times (14 stitches added in all). The increases
are worked on either side of the center 3 stitches of the mock cable that
runs up the center of the thumb. BEGIN: On round 5, needle 2 (PALM) work
an increase in first purl stitch by purling twice in the stitch, work mock
cable on next 3 stitches as established, increase in next purl stitch as
before, purl one, knit 18, purl 2, work mock cable on next 3 stitches as
established, purl 2. (REMEMBER that you have transferred one stitch
from the PALM needle to the BACK needle!)
When all 7 increase rounds have been completed you
should have 24 stitches (still) on your BACK needle and (now) 45
stitches on your PALM needle for a total of 69 stitches.
REMEMBER that some of the Mock Cable and Lacy Diamond stitches have
fewer stitches in certain rows!!!!!
When you have worked your last increase round,
measure the mitt from the TOP of the cuff to where you are. It should be
about 2 1/2 inches. The mitt needs to be up to the “crotch” of your
thumb. (I worked 2 more rows above my last increase row to get the
piece as long as I wanted it.)
Divide for thumb. Work across needle 1 as
established. On needle 2 purl 1 stitch (you can now put this stitch back
on needle 1 – the BACK needle). Slip the next 17 stitches onto a
holder to work the thumb later. Onto needle 2 cast on 3 stitches using the
backward loop or knitted cast on. Purl the next 2 stitches, knit 18, purl
2, work 3(mock cable), purl 2. You now should be back to your original
count of 25 stitches on needle 1 (BACK) and 30 stitches on
needle 2 (PALM). 55 stitches total.
Continue up the hand of the mitt working each stitch
as established. REMEMBER to work the mock cable (that was up
the center thumb and now is going up the thumb side of the hand) in the
same way as the other mock cables in the mitt.
When the hand measures about 2 1/2 inches above the
thumb “crotch” (or one inch less than desired length), begin working mock
cable completely around the mitt as on the cuff. If you keep your center
cables in the same place and you have the right amount of stitches, it
should work out perfectly (cough). And, if you begin on round 1 or 2 your
top cables will have more of a “beginning” look.
After one inch of Mock Cable stitch (I did 2-5 row
repeats plus rounds 1 & 2 to “finish off” the cable), bind off loosely.
LEFT MITT
Work the same as the right mitt to the top of the
cuff.
Round 1 of hand: BACK needle – Work round 1 of Lacy
Diamond across 8 stitches, purl 2, knit 3 in mock pattern as established,
purl 2, again work round 1 of Lacy Diamond, purl 2. DO NOT MOVE ONE STITCH
FROM THE BACK NEEDLE TO THE THUMB NEEDLE. Keep 25 on the BACK
needle and 30 on the PALM needle.
Needle 2, PALM needle: Work mock cable on first three
stitches as established, purl 2, knit 18, purl 2, knit 3 in mock pattern
as established, purl 2. Continue as right mitt, only working gusset
increases at either side of the mock cable at the END of needle 2.
Your thumb will be on the opposite side of the
previous mitt.
When them gusset is complete, put the thumb stitches
on a holder making sure they are the center 17 stitches that include the
14 increased stitches and the center three mock cable stitches. Cast on 3
stitches to replace the thumb stitches and REMEMBER to work the
mock cable (that was up the center thumb and now is going up the
thumb side of the hand) in the same way as the other mock cables in the
mitt.
Finish hand as right mitt, keeping all stitches as
established.
THUMB: Both mitts
Go back to the 17 stitches you have placed on a
holder for the thumb. Put these stitches on the double-point needles as
follows:
Needle 1 – 7 stitches. Needle 2 – 7 stitches. Needle
3 – 3 stitches. Pick up 3 more stitches with needle 3 from the three cast
on stitches of the hand at the crotch of the thumb. You may need to pick
up extra stitches along this opening to prevent holes, and then you can
decrease them right away as you work up the thumb. This will bring the
stitch total for needle 3 to 6 stitches. 20 stitches total.
You will now work around the thumb purling every
stitch except the three stitches of the Mock Cable. Keep these in the
pattern as established!
When the thumb measures about 3/4ths of an inch,
begin working mock cable completely around the thumb. (20 stitches with a
5 stitch repeat…it should work….) As with the top of the mitt, I
tried to begin the top mocks with round 1 or 2 and ended with round 2 so
the cables looked “complete”. Bind off loosely.
EDGING
With a size E crochet hook, join yarn at the side
edge of the top of the mitt with a slipstitch. Chain one and then single
crochet in the same stitch. {Chain 3, skip one bound off stitch and then
work a single crochet in next bound off stitch.} Work what is between
these brackets around the top of the mitt. When you get back to the first
single crochet, work a slipstitch in it and end off.
Work this border around the top of the second mitt,
the tops of each thumb, and the opening edge of each cuff. Weave in all
ends.
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