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FOLDED UP FOR WARMTH.............

FOLDED BACK FOR WORKING!

LACE FINGERLESS MITTS

BY Grannie Linda Peck 6/09

Materials: One 50 gm. ball (1 3/4 oz.) of fingering weight yarn.

I used 2-ply handspun Australian Bond from Aliza Vanderlip, Ashland, OR. It was spun from the locks on an Ashford Traveler.

2 -Size US #1 (2.25 mm.) 16-inch circular needles or size to give gauge.

A set of 4-inch double point needles for the thumb.  Size E crochet hook. Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Gauge: 28 sts/48 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch.

This is a medium sized mitt for about a 6-inch wrist, and a 7 1/2-inch hand circumference…but it is stretchy and contracted enough that it will fit most women’s hands. The top of the mitt is long enough to keep the fingers warm and then can be folded back for doing important things like knitting and playing the piano!

CUFF
Starting at bottom of cuff, cast on 55 sts.
I put 25 sts. on the first circular (BACK of the mitt)
and 30 sts. on the second needle (PALM of the mitt)

NOTE:  The mitts are NOT interchangeable. You will be making a right hand one and a left hand one.

You will need to make changes (that I will note) when you make the second mitt. The first mitt is for the RIGHT HAND.
The cuff is worked in Lacy Mock Cables, a stitch from the Big Book of Knitting Stitch Patterns (Sterling Pub.)
on page 191 modified.

LACY MOCK CABLE
Round 1: (Knit 3, p 2) around.
Round 2: (Knit 3, pull the first stitch over the second two and off the needle – 1 stitch reduced – purl 2) around.

NOTE: you will only have 44 stitches around on your cuff at this point!
Round 3: (Knit 2, purl 2) around.
Round 4: (Knit 1, yarn over, knit 1, purl 2) around. Back to 55 stitches!
Round 5: (Knit 3, p 2) around.

Begin cuff by knitting round 1 of Lacy Mock Cable.
Continue until cuff is about 3 inches long. (I did 7 repeats of rows 1-5, plus rows 1-4 once more).

It is best to make sure you end with a row so that you have 55 stitches (remember, on rows 2 & 3 you will only have 44!).

PRODUCTION NOTE:

This next paragraph is just to give you an idea of where you will be heading, what the work of the hand will be like.

For the hand of the mitt, you will continue to work the mock cable up the side of the mitt, the center back, and the center of the thumb. You can put some kind of pin or marker on these cables to remind you!

The first needle has 25 stitches and this is the BACK of the hand. This first needle will work like this:

8 stitches of Lacy Diamond, 7 stitches for the mock cable (3 cable stitches with 2 purl stitches on either side), 8 stitches for the Lacy Diamond stitch, then purl 2 for the mock cable that will be going up the center thumb. (25 sts.)

For the second, PALM, needle (30 stitches), you will be working 3 mock cable stitches (center of the thumb), purl 2, then you will have 18 stitches of stockinette stitch,  then 7 stitches for the side mock cable (3 cable stitches with 2 purl stitches on either side). (30 sts.)

NOTE: TO MAKE THE THUMB INCREASES EASIER ON THE RIGHT MITT ONLY move one stitch from the BACK needle to the PALM needle on the edge where the thumb will be. You can do this right away, or do it on the first row.

LACY DIAMOND {From the Big Book of Knitting Stitch Patterns (Sterling Pub.)on page 156 modified.

Round 1: Knit 8 stitches.

Round 2: Knit 2, knit 2 together, yarn over twice {two loops on needle}, slip1knit1pass the slipped stitch over {sl1,k1,psso}, knit 2.

Round 3: Knit 3, (knit1, purl1) in double yarn over, knit 3.

Round 4: Knit 1, knit 2 tog., yo, knit 2, yo, sl1,k1,psso, knit 1.

Round 5: Knit 8 stitches.

Round 6: (Knit 2 tog, yo,) 3 times, sl1,k1,psso. (There will only be 7 stitches – REMEMBER!!!)

Round 7 Knit 7 stitches. Remember?

Round 8: Yo, sl1,k1,psso, yo, k 2 tog, knit 1, yo, k 2 tog, yo. (Back to 8 stitches – whew!)

Round 9: Knit 8 stitches.

Round 10: Knit 1, yo, sl1,k1,psso, knit 2, knit 2 tog, yo, knit 1.

Round 11: Knit 8 stitches.

Round 12: Knit 2, yo, sl1,k1,psso, knit 2 tog, yo, knit 2.

Keep in mind that the Mock Cable is a 5-row repeat and the Lacy Diamond is a 12-row repeat!

HAND

Now, off we go! Needle 1: Work round 1 of Lacy Diamond across 8 stitches, purl 2, knit 3, {NOTE!! If you are not on round 5 of the Mock Cable stitch, adjust accordingly!}, purl 2, again work round 1 of Lacy Diamond, purl one – if you have not already done so, now is the time to move the last stitch of this BACK needle to the PALM needle to make thumb gusset increases easier! This stitch will be purled through out! This will give you 24 stitches on needle one (BACK) and 31 stitches on needle 2 (PALM)!

Needle 2: purl one{the moved stitch}, knit 3, purl 2 (mock cable), knit 18, purl 2, knit 3, purl 2 (mock cable).

Continue up the hand as established. Follow the Mock Cable and Lacy Diamond stitches as listed.

THUMB GUSSET INCREASES

The increases for the thumb gusset will begin on the 5th round of the hand, then worked again every fourth round until you have increased 7 times (14 stitches added in all). The increases are worked on either side of the center 3 stitches of the mock cable that runs up the center of the thumb. BEGIN: On round 5, needle 2 (PALM) work an increase in first purl stitch by purling twice in the stitch, work mock cable on next 3 stitches as established, increase in next purl stitch as before, purl one, knit 18, purl 2, work mock cable on next 3 stitches as established, purl 2. (REMEMBER that you have transferred one stitch from the PALM needle to the BACK needle!)

When all 7 increase rounds have been completed you should have 24 stitches (still) on your BACK needle and (now) 45 stitches on your PALM needle for a total of  69 stitches. REMEMBER that some of the Mock Cable and Lacy Diamond stitches have fewer stitches in certain rows!!!!!

When you have worked your last increase round, measure the mitt from the TOP of the cuff to where you are. It should be about 2 1/2 inches.  The mitt needs to be up to the “crotch” of your thumb. (I worked 2 more rows above my last increase row to get the piece as long as I wanted it.)

Divide for thumb. Work across needle 1 as established. On needle 2 purl 1 stitch (you can now put this stitch back on needle 1 – the BACK needle). Slip the next 17 stitches onto a holder to work the thumb later. Onto needle 2 cast on 3 stitches using the backward loop or knitted cast on. Purl the next 2 stitches, knit 18, purl 2, work 3(mock cable), purl 2. You now should be back to your original count of 25 stitches on needle 1 (BACK) and 30 stitches on needle 2 (PALM). 55 stitches total.

Continue up the hand of the mitt working each stitch as established. REMEMBER to work the mock cable (that was up the center thumb and now is going up the thumb side of the hand) in the same way as the other mock cables in the mitt.

When the hand measures about 2 1/2 inches above the thumb “crotch” (or one inch less than desired length), begin working mock cable completely around the mitt as on the cuff. If you keep your center cables in the same place and you have the right amount of stitches, it should work out perfectly (cough). And, if you begin on round 1 or 2 your top cables will have more of a “beginning” look.

After one inch of Mock Cable stitch (I did 2-5 row repeats plus rounds 1 & 2 to “finish off” the cable), bind off loosely.

LEFT MITT

Work the same as the right mitt to the top of the cuff. 

Round 1 of hand: BACK needle – Work round 1 of Lacy Diamond across 8 stitches, purl 2, knit 3 in mock pattern as established, purl 2, again work round 1 of Lacy Diamond, purl 2. DO NOT MOVE ONE STITCH FROM THE BACK NEEDLE TO THE THUMB NEEDLE. Keep 25 on the BACK needle and 30 on the PALM needle.

Needle 2, PALM needle: Work mock cable on first three stitches as established, purl 2, knit 18, purl 2, knit 3 in mock pattern as established, purl 2.  Continue as right mitt, only working gusset increases at either side of the mock cable at the END of needle 2.

Your thumb will be on the opposite side of the previous mitt.

When them gusset is complete, put the thumb stitches on a holder making sure they are the center 17 stitches that include the 14 increased stitches and the center three mock cable stitches. Cast on 3 stitches to replace the thumb stitches and REMEMBER to work the mock cable (that was up the center thumb and now is going up the thumb side of the hand) in the same way as the other mock cables in the mitt.

Finish hand as right mitt, keeping all stitches as established.

THUMB: Both mitts

Go back to the 17 stitches you have placed on a holder for the thumb. Put these stitches on the double-point needles as follows:

Needle 1 – 7 stitches. Needle 2 – 7 stitches. Needle 3 – 3 stitches. Pick up 3 more stitches with needle 3 from the three cast on stitches of the hand at the crotch of the thumb. You may need to pick up extra stitches along this opening to prevent holes, and then you can decrease them right away as you work up the thumb. This will bring the stitch total for needle 3 to 6 stitches. 20 stitches total.

You will now work around the thumb purling every stitch except the three stitches of the Mock Cable. Keep these in the pattern as established!  

When the thumb measures about 3/4ths of an inch, begin working mock cable completely around the thumb. (20 stitches with a 5 stitch repeat…it should work….) As with the top of the mitt, I tried to begin the top mocks with round 1 or 2 and ended with round 2 so the cables looked “complete”.  Bind off loosely.

 

EDGING

With a size E crochet hook, join yarn at the side edge of the top of the mitt with a slipstitch. Chain one and then single crochet in the same stitch. {Chain 3, skip one bound off stitch and then work a single crochet in next bound off stitch.} Work what is between these brackets around the top of the mitt. When you get back to the first single crochet, work a slipstitch in it and end off.

Work this border around the top of the second mitt, the tops of each thumb, and the opening edge of each cuff. Weave in all ends.