| NNNNN GLOVE NOTES II NNNNN | ||
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KNITTING THE GLOVES! Gloves may be knit on a set of double-point needles only, or on two circulars - using a set of double points for the fingers. I prefer a set of circulars because I don’t want to put the hand stitches onto a holder while working the fingers! The pictures in this article will show a set of 16” circulars and and a set of 5” double-point needles for the fingers. I will try to include notes for the “double points only” method. I used 16” circulars, but you can use 24” or any size you have or feel comfortable with using. For the model I used some worsted weight yarn (Red Heart) and size 4 needles. To know how many stitches to use, read through “GLOVE NOTES I” on how to make a schematic pattern for your gloves. N |
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Cast on (NOT too tightly) the number of stitches for your cuff using either 2 circs or three (or four) d.p’s (double points). Work the cuff of choice; either ribbing, or a decorative stockinette stitch pattern. | |
| Knit your gusset using the amount of increases you figured in your schematic. You can make the gusset at the side for “either hand” gloves, or further into the palm for “hand specific” gloves. |
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| When you make your gusset increases evenly at the side, the glove will fit “either hand”. This is a good technique for young children, or for making mittens, (or if you just don’t want to mess with which glove to put on which hand!) N |
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| If your thumb gusset is more toward the palm of the hand, you will have a “hand specific” RIGHT glove and a LEFT glove. These fit well, and are the best way to go if you have a motif or picture on the back of the glove. |
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| Place the necessary stitches for the thumb on your double point needles. {If you are working the entire glove on double-points, then place the thumb stitches on a holder to be worked later.} |
 Cast on the stitches needed at the crotch of the thumb with a “half-hitch” cast-on |
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Continue knitting up for the thumb until it is a row or two less than the desired length. Decrease in two rows: Row 1: [Dec., K1] around. Row 2: Dec. around. -or- In one row: Work [Dec.] around. Cut yarn and thread through a tapestry needle. Draw it through the remaining stitches and pull tight.
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| Poke the tapestry needle down into the top of the thumb. Turn the thumb inside out and end off the yarn on the inside. Run the yarn through the back side of the knitting for about ½”, then clip off the yarn about ¼” away from the surface. |
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| Before you continue up the hand, you will have to pick up the required number of stitches at the base of the thumb. |
 /It is best to avoid holes by picking up an extra stitch at the corner and decreasing it immediately with the first stitch. |
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| Continue knitting with the circular needles up the hand until it is the length you need to reach the bottom of your pinky. |
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| You will be using the stitches opposite of the thumb for your pinky. At this point, you can still decide if you want your thumb on the edge for a glove that will fit either hand, or set a little into your palm for a glove that will be either right handed or left handed. Just shift the stitches around as needed. |
 NIf the gloves are “hand specific” don’t forget to reverse shaping on the second glove! |
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| Place your pinky stitches on the double points, casting on the needed number stitches needed at the crotch. If you are working your glove entirely on d.p.’s you will need to put the hand stitches on a holder while working the pinky, or put the pinky stitches on a holder for working later. |
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Work the pinky until the desired length and end it off as you did the
thumb.
/There is a suggestion that you can turn your fingers inside out after you work them (down into the glove), so that they will be out of your way while working the remaining fingers. Try this and see if you like it, or just “tuck” the idea away (ahem). |
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After you finish the pinky you will work a few rows, as you figured on your schematic, before starting the remaining fingers (for a better fit!) {Don’t forget to pick up the necessary stitch or two at the base of the pinky.} When you are done working a few rows, put the stitches needed on d.p.’s for your ring finger.
You will cast on
a stitch or two, again, at the base of the finger {on the inside edge of
the ring finger}. Knit the finger until the desired length and finish it
off as you did the others.
/If
the glove recipient has tapered fingers, it ensures a better fit to
decrease a stitch or two when the finger is about an inch long, or so. |
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If you are working your glove on d.p.’s you will put the hand stitches on holders and then slip the amount of stitches needed onto double point needles to be worked for fingers. /Large safety pins or diaper pins make great holders for smaller amounts of stitches, or you can put them onto a piece of waste yarn.
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On the middle finger you will put the needed stitches on double point needles. You will PICK UP a stitch or two along the base of the ring finger, and you will cast on a stitch or two along the base of the middle finger, on the side next to the index finger.
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| Work the finger as the others. |
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Work the index finger as the others, picking up a stitch or two at the base, on the middle finger side as needed. If you have worked the glove entirely on d.p.’s you can now go back and work the thumb and/or pinky stitches that you had on holders.
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Work your second glove, and don’t forget to reverse the shaping if you made “hand-specific” gloves! The first pair can be a little scary, but you will get the hang of it! In no time you will be making gloves with stripes, different colored fingers, and snowflakes! /Try making a pair using the self-striping sock yarn that is so popular! Gloves are a quick, fun project and perfect for gift-giving! Have fun! Grannie Linda
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