FAROESE SHAWL

A Method
10/08
©2008 by Grannie Linda -  However! You may save, print, and copy this method, just as long as you are not publishing or selling it.

The main advantage of a Faroese Shawl, so called because of its origins in the Faroese Islands, is fit. It is, basically, a triangle. However, it has some added shoulder shaping, and a center back “gusset” that help it to stay on.
Before I show you what I did, I will tell you some basic shawl knitting information.

BASIC TRIANGLE:

A triangle can be made in knitting several ways. The most basic method is that used in making cotton dishcloths. You increase at each end of every right side row until it is the desired width. This makes a very nice shawl (and if you decrease at the same rate, a very nice square item).

NOTE: Arrows in illustrations denote increase points.

DOUBLE TRIANGLE

You can also make a triangle in knitting by starting at the top -- or the long end of the triangle, with just a few stitches, and working down! You are actually making two right triangles side-by-side.

FAROESE METHOD

With the Faroese shawl, you are working the same method at the double triangle above, except that you have a “gusset” down the middle and some extra shoulder shaping.

Gusset:

The gusset goes down the center back of the shawl. You want the top of the gusset (that will be at the back of your neck), to be 2-3 inches wide. Depending on your gauge and the size of needles that you use, cast on several inches worth of stitches and then work your normal “double triangle” increases: on every other row at each side edge and then instead of each side of the center stitch, you work your increase on each outside edge of your gusset.

Additional Gusset Shaping:

You can make added increases at the top of the gusset to give you the traditional Faroese shape. What you do is, in addition to the four increases you are working on each right side row, you work an increase on the inside edge of the gusset. This is generally done for about 5 inches (or the width of your shoulder).

Shoulder Shaping:

Here is the final kicker! In the center of each right triangle, you will work additional increases for about the same length as you did the additional shaping at the top of the gusset: about 5 inches (or the width of your shoulder). You work 2 increases – one on each side of the center stitch of the triangle!

This gives a nice “pocket” for your shoulders and helps the shawl to stay on! It may seem like a lot of increasing, but that is only for the first 5 inches or so.

This also gives the shawl its “bat wing” shape. The elongated tips make it possible to tie or pin the tips of the shawl behind your back (beneath the flap) to give you free hands to work while wearing the shawl!

So! Now, for at least 5 inches or so, you have 10 increases to work on each right side row, but once the extra gusset shaping and the shoulder shaping are done, it settles down to the normal 4 increases of a double triangle…unless you want to do the additional gusset shaping (shown in dashed lines above). I chose to do them, but didn’t always remember, so they are not worked very regularly!

It is all about markers! Use the ring-type to remind yourself where to increase.

 
Now is the fun part! With this method you can use any yarn, any needles! Just work the method until your shawl is about the length you want it. I made mine about 30 inches long (from the neck to the bottom of the gusset) and it is perfect for me!

You can chose what stitch you want: anything from a simple garter to a complicated lace stitch. Pull out your stitch dictionaries and have fun!

 
Borders:

This is another design feature that is endless! You can end the shawl in any kind of edging that you want: a simple cast off, a lacey edging, a crocheted border – the possibilities are endless!

As for the long “straight” edge that is the front edge of the shawl, you can work a few stitches of garter stitch at the beginning and end of each row, or a rib.

What I did on mine was to work a strip of ribbing for a few inches and then pick up stitches along the side of the rib and begin my shawl, continuing the rib along the edge of the entire length of the shawl.
This is shown in detail in:
The Best Of Knitter’s Magazine Shawls and Scarves pp. 34-36 Myrna A. I. Stahman

I also slipped the first stitch of each row along the sides of the shawl.

For the bottom edge I worked a few rows of garter stitch, then worked a yarn over type border
found here:
(http://cache.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/faq-search.cgi?store=/stores/eyarn&faqKey=441&language=    )
before binding off. The total length of the shawl, from the center of the neck, down the center back to the bottom edge was 30 inches.

This project is ideal for travel, as the method is easy to work on and you can do a very simple stitch and still end up with a gorgeous shawl!

 
Here is a list of my favorite shawl books. They are a wonderful resource for shawl knitting of any kind!

 1) The Best Of Knitter’s Magazine Shawls and Scarves
By Nancy J. Thomas

2) Victorian Lace Today
By Jane Sowerby

3) A Gathering of Lace
By Meg Swansen

4) Traditional Knitted Lace Shawls
By Martha Waterman