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Chart is 62 squares wide (30 wide for instep).
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With straight needles Cast on 62 sts. and work in
ribbing of choice for 2 or 3 inches. (Model shows K1/Pk rib for 2
inches.)
After completing the ribbing, knit back and forth following the chart.
Start at the bottom of the chart. Make tiny skein “butterflies” of
yarn to use for each section of color and lines.
Note: For a taller sock, you may repeat a section of diamonds.
When you reach the narrower section of the chart, place the 16
stitches on each side of the sock on holders -- to be used later for
the heel.
Continue on narrow section of chart for instep. Place these last 30
stitches on a holder to be used later for instep.
Note: While the sock is in the “flat” stage, it
is easier to tuck in all the ends in, but leave long ends of yarn on
the side ‘half’ diamonds so you can sew the back seam with those
colors. You may seam the long back, too.
Place the stitches from the 2 heel holders (the
ones with 16 sts. on them) on a needle, with the center back together,
and work the heel using stitch of choice. Turn the heel as you
normally would; 18 sts. should remain. Break the yarn and join back at
the beginning right corner of the heel flap. Pick up and knit 15 sts
along the right side of the heel flap, knit across 18 heel sts, then
pick up 15 more along the left side of the heel flap. (48) Instep
stitches are still left alone on the holder, you will continue to work
back and forth on the heel side of the sock only until you have done
all the gusset decreases as you normally would and the heel half of
the sock is as long as the argyled instep section. (30 sts.)
Now knit circularly by knitting across the heel
section, then knitting directly across the 30 stitches that were on
the instep holder stitches. You should have 60 stitches. Completely
the sock as a normal 60 st. sock, beginning toe decreases when the
sock is about 1 1/2 inches less than desired length. After toe
decreases, weave the toe, sew side openings by the heel gusset, and
tuck in any remaining ends. |