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Chart is 62 squares wide (30 wide
for instep).
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With straight needles Cast on 62 sts. and work in
ribbing of choice for 2 or 3 inches. (Model shows K1/Pk rib for 2
inches.) After completing the ribbing, knit back and forth following
the chart. Start at the bottom of the chart. Make tiny skein
“butterflies” of yarn to use for each section of color and lines.
Note: For a taller sock, you may repeat a section of diamonds.
When you reach the narrower section of the chart, place the 16
stitches on each side of the sock on holders -- to be used later for
the heel. Continue on narrow section of chart for instep. Place these
last 30 stitches on a holder to be used later for instep.
Note: While the sock is in the “flat” stage, it is easier to tuck in
all the ends in, but leave long ends of yarn on the side ‘half’
diamonds so you can sew the back seam with those colors. You may seam
the long back, too.
Place the stitches from the 2 heel holders (the ones with 16 sts. on
them) on a needle, with the center back together, and work the heel
using stitch of choice. Turn the heel as you normally would; 18 sts.
should remain. Break the yarn and join back at the beginning right
corner of the heel flap. Pick up and knit 15 sts along the right side
of the heel flap, knit across 18 heel sts, then pick up 15 more along
the left side of the heel flap. (48) Instep stitches are still left
alone on the holder, you will continue to work back and forth on the
heel side of the sock only until you have done all the gusset
decreases as you normally would and the heel half of the sock is as
long as the argyled instep section. (30 sts.) Now knit circularly by
knitting across the heel section, then knitting directly across the 30
stitches that were on the instep holder stitches. You should have 60
stitches. Completely the sock as a normal 60
st. sock, beginning toe decreases when the sock is about 1 1/2
inches less than desired length. After toe decreases, weave the toe,
sew side openings by the heel gusset, and tuck in any remaining ends.
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